December 11th & 12th, 2004
5:15 am
. It seems I never have trouble getting up on the
morning of a bike ride. Today is no different. The skies are clear and, even
though it's December and it's not
7 am
, it's fairly warm outside.
I'm
enjoying the weather too much because I miss the exit for the toll road. I think
"No problem, I'll just take the 5 through downtown
L.A.
" I can always tell when
it's been too long since I've been on a ride when I don't think taking the worst
freeway through the worst place on the planet. Of course, this was Saturday
morning and traffic was fairly light, so it wasn't too bad. I connect with the
10 West to
Santa
Monica
to
Pacific Coast Highway
. I stop for gas.
I take PCH
through
Malibu
and take
Decker
Canyon
(Hwy 23) to Hwy 101. I stop
off to check the progress at the new BMW shop, BMW
of Ventura, but it's not open yet; still under construction.
I jump
back onto the 101 to
Santa Barbara
and take the Hwy 154 shortcut.
I stop again for gas in
San Luis Obispo
. Five hours from
San Juan
to
San Luis Obispo
. Thirteen miles to
Morro
Bay
and the ride is really getting
nice.
Pacific Coast Highway
between
Morro
Bay
and Big
Sur.
If my purgatory was riding a
motorcycle for eternity on PCH from
Morro
Bay
to
Big Sur
I would say, "Lord, you
can take me now". Only today is even more special. The weather is amazing.
The skies are a deep blue and the air temperature is in the 70s. The best part?
It's December so there's no tourist traffic!
Just
before reaching
Cambria
, the bubble bursts. I see the worst possible sign. It reads "Road
Closed 50 Miles Ahead Due To Landslide". Of course, the smart thing to do
is to go over to the 101 at
Cambria
. Do you think that's one of the options I consider? Of
course not! After
Cambria
, there's only one other crossing from PCH to the 101 until
Monterey
and that's at
Nacimiento
Pass.
If the slide is after
Nacimiento
Pass
, I can take
Nacimiento
Pass
to G16 to
Carmel
. If the slide is south of
Nacimiento Pass, well, I would have to backtrack to
Cambria
. Of course, there's another
option. There could be enough room for me to squeeze by. That's me; the optimist
(dreamer is probably more accurate).
I stop for
coffee at Ragged Point where I find that the rockslide is near Lucia, north of
Nacimiento
Pass.
Yeah! After a couple of hours
of amazing riding on the coast, I get to the line where cars are stopped at the
landslide. The construction worker says the road has been closed for two days,
but it will open in about half an hour! What incredible luck! I wait the half
hour and enjoy a clear roadway all the way to
Carmel
. After stopping for a snack
and to check my map, I 'm off to find my campsite; KOA in
Watsonville
. I arrive at the campsite near
5 pm
. The air is already cool and
is very damp. The KOA doesn't look that impressive (not nearly as nice as the
one in
Manchester
). Thinking that the campsite
is not that much cheaper than a warm and dry motel room (with a shower and TV),
I turn around and check into a Red Roof Inn.
I take
a shower and watch ESPN for a couple of hours (something I can't get away with
at home). I awake to my glasses sitting crooked on my face and some kind of
infomercial on the tube. I guess I fell asleep. I turn off the TV and lights and
I'm out again.
I don't
wake up again until a quarter to 7. I immediately think "I want my money
back". If I was out camping, I'm certain that I would have had to get up,
get dressed and walk a hundred yards to go to the bathroom in the middle of the
night. Last night, I had one right here with me and I didn't even use it! What a
waste!
I pack
up and I'm on the road at a quarter to eight. The fog is just lifting but it is
still overcast and very damp. It seems like the humidity is very high as
droplets form on my face shield. I've got every piece of gear on and the heated
grips are set at two dots.
I stop
for breakfast at my favorite cafe in Big Sur. I'm surprised they don't welcome
me by name by now. After all, this is the 9th time I've ridden through Big Sur this
year! This is my only "sit down" meal of the weekend, so I take my
time reading the newspaper and warming up. Eventually, the cafe starts to fill
up and I'm getting a little antsy.
The
weather is about the same all the way down the coast, at least to San Luis
Obispo where I stop for a cup of coffee and a slice of pie at Margies. When the
weather is good, this is a great time to tour the coast. Very little traffic and
accommodations are aplenty. As an example, the Piedras Blancas Motel (just north
of San Simeon) is advertising rooms at "39.95 and up". Nancy and I
have paid $170 a night. The room is not much better than a Motel 6, but you
can't beat falling asleep to the waves crashing on the cliffs nearby. Also,
there were plenty of sites available at Kirk Creek, one of my favorite campsites
on the coast but difficult to book since they are a "first come-first
serve" campsite and are usually full by Thursday night during the summer.
The
remainder of the ride home is uneventful. I don't start to warm up until I get
to Santa Barbara. I start thinking that the first thing I do when I get home is
order a Gerbing heated liner.
Overall,
a nice weekend of riding. 878 miles and my attitude is officially adjusted.